Review for Fall 2022 RTW
By Brady Pitcher
When the seasons change, so does the fashion, and the best place to find your fall 2022 fashion inspiration is on the runway. This year's runways have featured many new and different up-and-coming trends. From the elegant French-inspired clothes of Dior to the more vibrant and camp styles of J.W. Anderson, designers pulled inspiration from many unique places for their 2022 collections. However, the most consistent theme we have seen in the Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear pieces was advocacy. With so many societal and environmental issues today, it is of utmost importance that brands advocate and reflect on these issues.
Balenciaga’s RTW collection showed off their iconic oversized clothing and bodysuits while shining a spotlight on the Russian invasion of Ukraine. With the conflict between Russia and Ukraine on the rise, it was important for Balenciaga’s creative director, Demna Gvasalia, to share his views on the issues. Gvasalia, who fled war in his home country Georgia, at the age of 10, is aware of the hardships and tenacity required to leave your home in a life changing fashion. With his breathtaking Ready-to-Wear collection, Gvasalia demonstrated his determination to speak out for the suffering of Ukrainians. Symbolism of the war against Ukraine is seen in every detail of the show. The runway itself acts as a huge snow globe as the models walk through the harsh snowy conditions. This runway reflects the horrible conditions that Ukrainians, as well as Gvasalia, have and had to experience because of war. The trash bag accessories represent their possessions and treasures being taken from them as they flee for safety. A glimmer of hope is present in this collection. The models continue moving forward despite the bitter and frigid wind, which is symbolic of the Ukranian people who show no signs of giving up regardless of the terror they face each day.
Fashion brands Jacquemus and Marc Jacobs also used their shows as a chance for political commentary. At the forefront of the Jacquemus show this season was the topic of same-sex marriage. Simone Porte Jacquemus, creative director of Jacquemus, appropriately themed his fall 2022 runway collection on marriage and same sex love, as he recently got married to his husband, Marco Maestri. His Fall Ready-to-Wear show took inspiration from his very own wedding. Set in southern France’s Camargue, the runway looked as if it was on another planet. The salt-like grounds went wonderfully with Jacquemus’ themes of nature and earth tones. The collection’s opening image of two models hugging fervently expressed the designers love for his husband and his decision to speak out in defense of same-sex marriage. The collection starts with many looks inspired by wedding outfits. Both men and women wore black and white ensembles with tulle in a variety of designs, including gowns, suits, and garments that included both pants and shirts.
Beyond his beautiful wedding inspired outfits, Jacquemus perfectly combines outerwear with high fashion. The collection included tight-fitting dresses and skirts for women. Cropped tops with ties were also highlighted within the show. The jackets women wore were all oversized, from puffer jackets to trench coats, and they were all ideal for the upcoming fall season. The men on the runway rocked varying jackets and vests. The men’s bottoms consisted of shorts that were cropped at the knee or short pants. The iconic Jacquemus bags in this collection were as stunning as the clothing, which alone was outstanding. The Jacquemus accessories featured puffy totes, a modern form of bag that was first seen this season, and bags coated with Sherpa to emphasize texture. What really made this collection cohesive was the setting, the colors, and fabrics. Muted, earthy colors was the trend for the runway. Creams, browns greens, and of course the traditional black and and white were used. Fabrics like fur, linens, and cottons were used also connecting his collection to nature.
Jacquemus was not the only designer who pulled inspiration from love and equal rights for their show. Marc Jacobs also used his show and designs as a chance for commentary on the lack of equal rights in America. Marc Jacobs aimed to convey innovation, openness, and pride through his collection. With the Supreme Court justices attacking gay marriage rights after their decision on Roe v. Wade, it was important for Jacobs, a gay man, to speak his truth and fight against these harsh threats. His incredibly unique and over-the-top collection showed off the breathtaking art that comes from being confident and expressive. The beauty and art that come from being able to be entirely yourself was the general message Marc Jacobs sought to depict for his collection. The most common silhouette featured lower waistlines paired with flared skirts and pants. Jackets of all kinds were also used in most designs, being worn traditionally or as an accessory by tying them around the body in different shapes and designs. The main colors of the runway featured lavender, greens, pinks, and blues. Many fabrics used included vinyl, leather, and knits, which added texture and interest to each outfit. Every aspect of the runway, from the models’ platform white heels to their chopped hair reflected the overall high fashion and futuristic theme. Marc Jacobs was sincere in highlighting the beauty that results from people living freely and courageously. No matter what the Supreme Court plans to do in the future, we can always count on Marc Jacobs to push the boundaries of fashion.
Although the majority of people view fashion as nothing more than what one wears, it encompasses so much more. This season, many designers have used Ready-to-Wear collections as a platform to promote the causes they are most passionate about. Fashion is a language, a type of communication in which we can express and advocate. Through their collections and runways, brands, such as Balenciaga, Jacquemus, and Marc Jacobs can respond to today’s issues in the real world though art and design. Each brand puts their unique marks on fall staples like jackets and pants in their own way. While each collection is stunning and different through their clothes, it is the way they transmit the designers' messages that propels these brands to be the most adored by consumers worldwide.