Inclusive Sizing on the Runway - Brand Report Card

Gucci:

Although Gucci’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection ranged from sizes IT34 to 54, this inclusivity was not translated to their runway shows. Gucci only had 10 mid-size models on their runway and had no plus-size models (Maguire et. al, 2023). Gucci ‘s collection had 53 looks in total, 81% of which were straight size, 19% were mid-size, and 0% were plus size. Straight size includes those that are size US 0-4. Mid-size includes those that are sizes US 6-12, while plus-size are those US 14+. This means that Gucci had no models showing clothes above a size US 12. Gucci’s incorporation of a larger range of clothes but not hiring any plus size models for the runway shows demonstrates their lack of commitment and concern regarding size inclusivity. Gucci is attempting to put on a façade of being size inclusive even though they are not taking the necessary strides to implement representation of different body sizes.

Grade: C-







Chanel:

Chanel’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection will be sold in up to size US18, however Chanel only had 4 mid-size models and no plus-size models. The mid-size models only accounted for 4.6% of the 66-look collection by Chanel (Langedijk, 2023). One of these mid-size models was Jill Kortleve, who was hailed by Cosmopolitan in 2020 for being Chanel’s first ‘plus size’ model in over a decade (Owen, 2020). While Jill modeling for Chanel is a huge achievement and step in the right direction, one cannot help but wonder if Jill was originally labeled as a plus-size model due to the extreme lack of size inclusivity on runways. How do plus-size women feel when they believe they finally have representation on fashion runways, just to find out that this model is actually not plus-size? When Jill was recognized as actually being a mid-size model, why did Chanel not hire an actual plus-size model to fill this gap?

Grade: D









Sinead O’Dwyer:

The Irish designer, Sinéad O’Dwyer, is making tremendous strides in the fashion industry by designing garments made for a wide variety of body shapes and sizes. Sinéad O’Dwyer was rated by Vogue Business as the second most size inclusive brand on London’s Fall-Winter 2023 runways, with Karoline Vitto taking first place. Of 21 total looks, 9.5% were straight size, 52.4% were mid-size, and 38.1% were plus size (Maguire, 2023). Sinéad O’Dwyer’s commitment to size inclusivity also came from a place of personal struggle, with O’Dwyer stating that working with different body shapes and sizes helped her to overcome her eating disorder and build a positive relationship with her body. In regard to brands offering more styles instead of more sizes, Sinéad O’Dwyer stated that “They should reduce the amount of different things they’re making, and focus instead on the amount of sizes per style per season,” (O’Dwyer, 2022). This philosophy is something that other luxury brands need to focus more on. Instead of focusing on creating a massive number of different looks, focusing on making each look size inclusive. Sinéad O’Dwyer is not only focusing on increasing inclusivity of different sizes, but also different shapes of bodies. For example, she designed shirts made specifically to accommodate different bust sizes (O’Dwyer, 2022). As O’Dwyer eloquently stated, “Being represented is the most important thing in the world, for every sort of person, because it has such a profound impact on people’s mental health when they don’t see themselves represented,” (O’Dwyer, 2022). The greatest commonality between Ester Manas and Sinéad O’Dwyer is an understanding of the harm inflicted upon plus size and mid-size women when they do not see themselves represented on fashion runways. How does the lack of plus-size models on luxury fashion runways impact women’s own perception of their body and self-worth based on their size? These popular luxury brands need to stop adhering to patriarchal views of women’s’ bodies and instead start focusing on how they can build women up instead of breaking them down.

Grade: A+









Ester Manas:

Ester Manas is a Brussels-based brand designed by Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre that launched in 2019 (Testa, 2022). This brand was rated by Vogue Business as the most size inclusive brand at Paris Fall-Winter 2023 runway shows. Of 32 total looks, 25% were straight size, 40.6% were mid-size, and 34.4% were plus size. This is an amazing feat, especially compared the brand that was ranked as second for size inclusivity at Paris Fall-Winter 2023 runways, whom at 0% plus size looks. Ester Manas has always been dedicated to increasing size inclusivity, stating that “Having an inclusive casting has always been one of our ethos since the first collection,” (Marguire et. al, 2023). Additionally, Ester Manas is making massive strides for size inclusivity in the fashion world with their commitment to making garments that are one size fits several body types. For example, in 2020, 90% of their collection being one size fits several, ranging from American size 2 to 18 (Testa, 2022). The heartfelt starting of Ester Manas makes their designation as the most size inclusive brand on Paris runways even more astounding. One of the founders of this brand, Ester Manas, has been open about her struggles as a size 44-46 woman interesting in luxury brands and fashion (Jackson, 2022). Ester Manas is not a brand that introducing size inclusivity because they “have to” to prevent getting criticized. Instead, Ester Manas’ commitment to size inclusivity comes from a place of understanding and empathy for woman who feel like the luxury fashion world has excluded them.

Grade: A++






Dior:

In the 2022 interview with the Washington Post, the creative director for Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri has stated that “We need to change a mentality” when it comes to body inclusivity and femininity (Givhan, 2022). However, Dior has scored a 0% of plus size looks from the Paris Autumn/Winter 2023 show (Maguire, Shoain, Benissan, 2023). As one of the big houses in fashion, it is disappointing to see failed progress in body inclusivity. Felicity Hayward, who is a plus size model, even stated that plus-size representation is heading backwards, as we see less and less plus-size looks from big named brands (Maguire, Shoain, Benissan, 2023). Another big loss from Dior!

Grade: F





Chloé:

Out of the 43 looks from the Paris Autumn/Winter 2023 show, Chloé had only a 4.7% of mid-size looks, as well as 0% in plus sizes (Maguire, Shoain, Benissan, 2023). As a brand that stated, “we have defined and put in place clear standards to ensure that they feel protected and valued at Chloé,” it is saddening to see a small percentage of body inclusivity on the runway. Overall, the looks from the Autumn/Winter 2023 across New York, London, Milan, and Paris showed only a 0.6% of plus size representation (Maguire, Shoain, Benissan, 2023). We are forever changing; we must do better!

Grade: D+







Karoline Vitto:

A Brazilian designer is paving the way for fashion! In her solo debut, Karoline Vitto created a beautiful and inclusive array of looks in her Ready-To-Wear Spring 2024 collection in Milan. Many of the models, including Ashley Graham, said that she felt Vitto brought more curves to the runway, ultimately making each model feel comfortable and appreciative of Vitto’s amazing work. Karoline Vitto stated that she wants to celebrate the areas that people tell us to hide from, which includes that excess flesh or back rolls (Tindle, 2021). She works with materials that are elastic and even created cutouts in the garments to show the curves and folds of one’s body. Out of her 12 looks in the London Autumn/Winter 2023 collection, there were 75% mid-size and 25% plus size looks. Her winter-ready pieces and all her looks even range from S-4XL. Thanks to Karoline Vitto, this is a huge step in fashion!

Grade: A++





Di Petsa:

Along with their distinctive wet-looks, the Greek designer, Dimitra Petsa, has done the fashion industry justice once again! Her creations examine female sexuality and dismantle stigma associated with feminine form (ShowStudio, 2023). Out of 46 looks from the London Autumn/Winter 2023, 21.7% were mid-size and 10.9% were plus size. Not only are her designs inclusive for all body types, but she also studied the term of being body conscious. Petsa stated that, as a society, we hide our bodily fluids when we should embrace them. By using her body conscious knowledge, her designs “consider what’s happening inside the human body as much as they flatter its silhouette” (Yokta, 2020). Additionally, she has designed corsets that help women breastfeed, ultimately embracing how beautiful a women’s body is in nourishing new life. She continues celebrating bodily fluids and the idea of “wetness” in her beautiful designs.

Grade: A+